The smell of cinnamon, star anise and cloves cast spells in the air as passersby clutched steaming mugs of mulled wine or gluhwein in their mittened hands. It was hot, spiced and potent! It was a magical time of hope, love and gluhwein. And though I could never recreate the same magic that sparkled around us in Salzberg, I recreated gluhwein many times since. I hope you enjoy it as much as we did.