Campervan Adventures: Exploring Cork, Sligo, and the Burren
My recent campervan trip was nothing short of blissful, blending the beauty of Ireland's landscapes with the freedom of life in the van. It was one of my first trips alone with my dogs, it all felt pretty strange and off kilter without my furry friends. I was reluctant to leave my dog Bruce behind (though in very capable hands) due to his knee injury. I started my trip without much of a plan if I’m honest, my instinct initially was to stay within striking distance of home in Kerry.
So I eased myself in by driving south to Cork and my first stop at the Ewe Experience near Glengariff. An interactive sculpture garden, nestled in the scenic hills of West Cork. It's a unique fusion of art, nature, and storytelling, where visitors can explore whimsical sculptures and installations along lush, winding trails.
Lough Hyne, Cork. It’s a place that holds a unique kind of magic, especially under the night sky. My last trip here I shared with my old dog Molly, one of our last big adventures together, it will always be a special place for me.
Lough Hyne: Swimming in Bioluminescence
Lough Hyne is a saltwater lake surrounded by rolling hills and dense woodlands. I arrived primed for a night with only a small sliver of a moon, perfect for one of the most enchanting experiences—swimming in bioluminescence. Once you aggitate the water, it lights up with every movement, a surreal display of nature’s own light show as the plankton glow like fairy dust. For those who prefer to stay dry, I highly recommend night kayaking in the Lough, where you can glide through the glowing waters under the velvet night sky.
I enjoy being out in the elements immensely, feeling the sun on my skin, the icy cold lake water that made me gasp. Cool, damp night air that creeps into my knuckles, squeezing like in a tight vice grips ache. Being alone in quiet, dark of night, juxtaposed against the comfort of the down duvet to snuggle under after I glide the van's solid, sliding door closed.
The next morning, I cooked breakfast outdoors, savouring the fresh air, stunning views across the Lough and chatted to the locals who flock here daily to swim in the still water. Once fueled, I set out to hike up Knockomagh Hill, which offers breathtaking panoramic views over Lough Hyne. The trail is moderate, and has a path to follow upwards. It’s well worth the effort, providing a vantage point that captures the essence of this serene corner of Cork.
Skibbereen Market and a Wedding to Remember
From Lough Hyne, I made my way to Skibbereen to explore the famous Skibbereen Farmers' Market, held every Saturday. The market is a vibrant hub of local produce, crafts, and foods, perfect for stocking up on delicious supplies for the journey ahead.
My next stop was a friends’ wedding at Ashley Park House in Tipperary, a venue that can only be described as enchanting. The hotel, with its colonial architecture, overlooks a serene lake, and the surrounding walled gardens are a paradise of blooming flowers and heaving polytunnels. The food was amazing and venue were amazing! Best of all was the outpouring of love for the happy couple. Such an honour to celebrate with them.
Chilling in Strandhill
After the wedding, and news that Bruce was doing great back home, I found spread my wings a little wider and headed to Strandhill in Sligo, a place I've visited many times and never tire of. It was a bit of drive up to the north west, but I often feel the pull to this part of Ireland so I just rolled with it! Strandhill is a surfer’s paradise, and I took the opportunity to catch up with my lovely friend Melanie, owner of Rebelle Surf. I’d met Mel first on one of her Women’s Surf Weekends and I’ve been fan girling her ever since!
For Yoga it’s got to be a visit to Kindred Studios, the view is breathtaking from this serene space. So many classes and great teachers to choose from too. Love it!
For food, Stoked and Shells Cafe are must-visits. Stoked offers hearty, delicious meals tapas style with a focus on local ingredients fused with international influences (the cauliflower wings and scallops are unreal!), while Shells is the ideal spot for a leisurely brunch or coffee by the sea. If you're traveling by campervan, you can park behind the local bar in town for just €8 per night, making it convenient to explore Strandhill on foot.
As much as I love eating out, I also really relish the simplicity of cooking everything in one pan and making do with what's in the cooler box to stay in budget - a big focus on this trip for me. Having the time to walk my fingers along the spines of books, head tilted to the side, scanning titles in tiny bookshops. Falling asleep tonight to the sound of the sea on the west coast, and the patter of rain on the roof.
While in Strandhill, I also hiked up Knocknarea, a hill steeped in myth and history. At the summit lies Queen Medh’s Grave, a massive cairn that is said to be the final resting place of the legendary warrior queen. The views from the top are spectacular, offering a sweeping panorama of Sligo’s rugged coastline and countryside. I like to go visit the Warrior Queen I was named after and soak up the energy here.
The Burren: Rugged Beauty and More Food!
The final leg of my trip took me to the Burren, a landscape that always reminds me of some otherworldly place. My partner Jason joined me here for two days and we based ourselves in Liscannor, a small village I’m very fond of, quieter than nearby Lahinch so perfect for a decent night’s sleep!
One of the highlights was the Mullaghmore Hike, a trail that winds through the Burren’s distinctive karst landscape for 7km. The hike is a little challenging but well marked and offers unparalleled views of the rocky terrain, dotted with rare flora and unreal views.
For food, Hugo’s in Lahinch is my favourite bakery, their homemade patel de natas are a real treat! I also love visiting The Cheese Press in Ennistymon, a charming little place where you can pick up artisanal cheeses and other local foodie bits n bobs. Back in Liscannor, Vaughan’s Anchor Inn is the place to go for some of the best seafood in the area.
For Yoga, check out Katie Ahern and her classes in the new studio above Dolly’s in Liscannor.
Reflections on the Road
As I drove from place to place, I immersed myself in "Educated" by Tara Westover, a powerful memoir about a woman’s journey from a survivalist family in Idaho to earning a PhD from Cambridge University. The book is a testament to resilience and the transformative power of education. It’s gripping! I also felt really inspired by a book I borrowed from the library called "Tough Broad" by Caroline Paul, a collection of essays celebrating strong, adventurous women who defy stereotypes and blaze their own trails.
In the quiet moments of my journey, I found time to journal and reflect. One passage from Kerri Ní Dochartaigh’s "Cacophony of Bone" resonated deeply with me: “Things to carry into the darker time of the year.” It made me ponder what I want to carry forward with me —perhaps simplicity, making the time for adventure and spending as much time as possible outdoors and in the sea.
