The joyous simplicity of wild camping in Ireland

June 20, 2022 Maeve Ferris

Wild Camping

As I pull into the layby above the beach, there’s only a few locals left paddling and sighing out the day. A scattering of families eating their dinners off plastic plates, swatting sand flies away. Dog walkers pause from launching tennis balls to their eager, panting companions, to take photos of the red, pink and orange sky before the red spherical sun dips down below the horizon.

A sense of peace descends over the land as the evening settles in. After the holiday home brigade and day-trippers pile back into their SUVs and people carriers; I park up towing my little teardrop caravan (affectionaly known as Henrietta by my friends). It was birthday present to myself for my 40th year around this ball of light we are all here to admire. An “upgrade” from the tents and inflatables of my 20s and 30s to this quirky bubble-shaped creation. A double bed on wheels complete with a usb port and solar powered battery – which I never remember to charge! My very own timber clad cocoon emanating a sweet scent of freedom (and comfort) off it! However, this luxury is at the cost of waking up on Mt Brandon or on the sand in Barleycove or at a hidden ancient monastic settlement teetering on a cliff. A tent goes wherever your feet can carry you, my pine palace is limited to where cars go.

And so, I was home for the night on a sandy layby overlooking the sea a few hundred metres from a quiet road. A quick scan of the area, reveals no visible livestock, nor signs forbidding me to camp overnight. Good to go! I release the dogs for a sniff, securing them with long leashes.

Moments later a pan perched on gas camping stove sizzles as the multicoloured vegetables and roughly chopped tofu topple in. Pale rice noodles soak up the glug of soya sauce and sesame oil and 5 minutes later I’m balancing the hot pan on a tea towel and tuck in with a wooden fork. Leaning back in my camp chair I prop my feet up on the hubcap and watch the sun fade further into the night.

My only house work - add some water and swirl in the pan. Using my hand I agitate it and scatter the water away. Clean as it’ll ever need to be! I pack up each cooking implement into its case and basket and slid them back into the allocated space in Henrietta. Time to explore! I unclip the dogs who are as eager as I am to scout out our new locality. We head off over the soft, cooling sand together. Sand hoppers nudge my ankles as we meander the beach in the half-light before bed. At the shore, I rinse my hands and face in the sea and paw my palms dry on my leggings. Beauty routine complete! Foregoing my usual night time shower at home in favour of a morning swim tomorrow.

Back at the van I brush my teeth under the stars and rinse sparingly with water from my 5 litre drum. Before long, the dogs are all tucked up and I read by solar torch until my heavy eyelids overpower me. The sound of the waves soothes me to sleep and I know that if I wake to unfamiliar sounds outside, I’ll focus on the sound of the rush and wash against the sand to drift away once more.

I wake not long after 4am as light sneaks through the roughly taped black squares over the porthole windows. Rolling over, I unlock the door and smile sleepily tucked in a white cotton covered duvet at the sunrise show outside. I feel as though I am the only person on earth awake and this sunrise is just for me. I sneak out for a wild wee in the dawnlight. Dusting the sand off my barefeet, chilly from the dewy morning air, I slide back into bed. In this liminal space between sleep and awake, night and day, the sound of the dogs soft snores grounds me and lulls me back to slumber. It is this simplicity I crave and thrive upon.

“Those who contemplate the beauty of the earth find reserves of strength that will endure as long as life lasts” —Rachel Carson

This is why I wild camp, why I choose to stay near the beach and fall asleep to the sound of the sea or be woken by the wind in the trees or the bird’s practicing the dawn chorus. For the views, the silence, the oneness with nature, the simple life - where the usual menial tasks like cooking or washing up become the big things that punctuate my days. And like all the best things in life, it’s absolutely free.

What is Wild Camping?

Wild camping simply means to camp outside of caravan parks and official camp sites, to stay in the wilderness. That said, finding wilderness in Ireland is quite the expedition in itself. The most remote place in Ireland was found to be just 8km from the nearest road, a place on a boggy hillside in the Nephin Mountains in Mayo.

Wild camping is often tolerated in Ireland, though not exactly legal, mainly due to the extensive private land ownership in our country. A distant cry from Norway’s longstanding law ‘allenmannsretten’ – the right to roam, that allows anyone to camp virtually anywhere in the country for free, so long as you set up camp over 150m away from the nearest house / cabin / used or occupied building.

Ireland however, is a different animal and land owners must legally be asked for permission to camp on their property. I’m amongst friends here, right? So, I’ll be honest, I’ve never asked anyone! The use of common sense, courtesy and respect for both nature and the possible landowners has granted me many the nights B&B under the stars in tents, campervans and more recently in my little wagon on beaches, in forests, parks and roadsides (not my first choice!). All that said, I don’t pitch up in a field or someone’s garden and expect to be welcomed! Choose wisely and respectfully.

I’ve learned a few tips along the way, to help make wild camping an amazing experience for you too. These are based on setting up camp near your car, so these won’t necessarily all work well if you’re through hiking (hiking and camping for multiple days / nights).

My Top 10 Wild Camping Tips

1. Check your gear before you leave home, including practicing setting up your tent!

2. Travel light, especially if you’re carrying all your gear - always bring fresh, clean water or a water filter and plan your water refill spots if you’re hiking. Pack loo roll, natural insect repellent, compostable refuse bags, a charged phone, sunscreen. You may also need a map and compass if hiking / walking. Also consider what you don’t need - make up for example and gadgets. Go to get away from the trappings of daily digital life

3. Pack your waterproof gear and layers – night time gets cold in Ireland even in Summer. Check out my blog about staying warm and dry outdoors in Ireland here

3. Leave no trace and abide by the 7 principles

4. It’s best not to light fires – again in line with the leave no trace guidelines and they can pose very serious safety risks for wild fires

5. Bring food that’s quick and easy to prep or for shorter trips I often pre-make food and reheat it (eg) a curry

6. Trust your gut – I often wild camp on my own with my dogs. It’s vital to trust your instincts.

7. Safety first – choose a site that is safe for you. Arrive at day light, so you can see what and who is around you. Sometimes, I like to camp within ear or eye shot of families or couples

8. If you’re camping with dogs, bring leads and doggie bags and please be aware that they are not generally permitted on mountains in Ireland due to livestock. If you’re in Kerry I wrote a blog that has a list of great dog walks around the county. Have a look at this handy website too for more places to go with your doggo - dog friendly Ireland

9. Seek permission from landowners before setting up camp (don’t say I didn’t warn you!)

10. I recommend purchasing or borrowing the best camping gear you can afford or get your hands on. And if you’re looking for a little extra luxury you can’t beat a solar shower (a black plastic bag with a hose and shower head, fill it with water and leave it in the sun for a while – the water heats up and it’s so refreshing showering outdoors as nature had intended

My Favourite Wild Camping Spots: (Sorry but no exact coordinates because I like a bit of peace and quiet!!!) I strongly encourage you to go and explore for yourself, that’s a big part of the adventure. If you’re new to this, try a place close to home, you’ll get to know it in a completely different way when you sleep out in the elements.

Banna Beach, Co. Kerry (yes of course I am biased!)
Derrynane, Co. Kerry
Allihies, Co. Cork
Barleycove, Co. Cork
The Glen of Aherloe, Co. Tipperary
Lahinch, Co. Clare
Clonsalee, Co. Offaly
Kinvara Pier, Co. Galway
Glencolmcille, Co. Donegal

What next?

Plan a trip! My trips go one of two ways - either I plan one around something like a festival or a weekend event or else I just hit the road with no plan at all. I love both approaches! If you’re more of the former and like a good plan, may I suggest a visit to where my heart lies? – Banna Beach, Co. Kerry. And in case you need a reason to pitch up, then I have some amazing events this Summer on the beach such as Yoga & Surf Adventure Days, Yoga & Stand-Up Paddling Boarding, Sunset Beach Yoga and much more. I’ll share local insider info on where to camp too! I love Banna so much I even wrote a blog about 7 reasons to visit Banna Beach in Summer.

Glamping alternatives:

If all this feels a bit daunting or you don’t have the equipment etc; then dip your toe in the water and stay in a glamping site or an eco-site such as:

Carrauntoohil Eco Farm, Co. Kerry (I’m delighted to be hosting a Wild Weekend Retreat here in August 22 - get in touch if you’d like me to add you to the interested list!)
Base Glamp at Black Dog Farm, Co. Kerry
Pure Camping, Co. Clare
Clifden Eco Beach Camping & Caravanning Site, Co. Galway
Blackstairs Eco Trails Shepherd’s Huts, Co. Carlow
Inch Hideaways Eco Camping, Co. Cork

“I went to the woods because I wished to live deliberately, to front only the essential facts of life, and see if I could not learn what it had to teach, and not, when I came to die, discover that I had not lived” —Henry David Thoreau

Immerse yourself in the wild, live deliberately by enjoying the open road this Summer and the sense of freedom and excitement it brings. I look forwarding to hearing about your wild camping adventures in Ireland this Summer - I’d love for you to tag me on your trips on social media!

Le grá,

Maeve x

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